At the core of every oil lies a delicate chemistry. Some compounds announce themselves boldly, while countless others quietly support the scent, letting it unfold gracefully. Finally, the most understated notes add layers of depth and nuance, making each oil uniquely its own.
The argument between natural and synthetic is complex. Synthetics offer advantages like consistency, cost-effectiveness, and sometimes greater sustainability, which is why many perfumers choose them.
They ensure reliable quality and make certain aromas more accessible. As a therapist and natural perfumer working only with naturals, I embrace their variability and lively interplay.
Whilst I appreciate the role synthetics play in broadening creative and sustainable possibilities, I feel they belong in their own categories. Below is a brief description of each.
Brief Clarification
Aroma chemicals are individual scent molecules that can be derived from nature or created in a lab and are responsible for specific smells.
Natural isolates are single molecules extracted from natural sources, for example, linalool from lavender oil or eugenol from clove. These can help a natural perfumer to enhance and give their blends longevity. Many purists will not use these.
'Synthetics' are lab-created versions of scent molecules that may or may not occur in nature and are often designed for consistency, affordability, or to replicate rare or unsustainable aromas.
Synthetics are primarily the domain of the cosmetic and fragrance industry and traditional perfumery. They have dominated our fragrance choices for most of the 20th century and continue to do so.
Synthetics V Natural
Synthetics are primarily used in the perfume and fragrance industry. While pure and natural materials are still used alongside chemical counterparts, they are part of a commercial perfumer's palette, and ultimately, their margins drive the evolution of these creations.
Naturals are used both therapeutically and in natural perfume; in both cases, material purity is essential. However, rising global unrest and climate change have made trade more difficult, driving prices higher.
Large perfume houses now have the financial capacity to reserve rare material harvests years in advance. Independent perfumers and therapists seek reputable distillers and growers, a niche with its own production capacity limits.
To adapt, many small-scale perfumers turn to more available botanicals such as lavender, citrus fruits, and rosemary. Others create inventive blends highlighting familiar ingredients in new combinations.
Good knowledge of essential oil chemistry can support the use of materials available only in small quantities, allowing work to stand out through creativity and resourcefulness rather than by access to rare or costly materials.
Our Fragile World
Whichever side of this divide you sit on, one key consideration remains: while synthetics reduce prices and offer consistency, they come at a cost. As with everything, there are pros and cons.
On one hand, the use of synthetic ingredients can help reduce pressure on endangered plant and animal species that are traditionally harvested for their scents.
However, the production and disposal of synthetic chemicals can also lead to pollution and other environmental problems. IFRA has limited the use of certain natural materials, deeming their chemistry potentially sensitising through allergens and photosensitivity. This is not true for all; it is just a few compounds identified in their chemistry.
This means adjustments must be made when using key materials, such as rose or jasmine. However, in practice, this is rare, as an experienced advocate would never dose amounts that cause such reactions.
By the same token, the synthetics within perfumes are now being identified as having an impact too. Daily use of fragrance seeps through the skin barrier and into the bloodstream, where it circulates and influences body systems before it is metabolised.
These fixatives are non-biodegradable and have been detected in urine and breast milk. Research shows this cumulative effect can lead to hormonal disruption and allergies.
Continuous inhalation can be a respiratory irritant, leading to severe chronic asthma attacks. Laboratory tissue studies show certain synthetic musks can bioaccumulate in human fat tissue and exhibit neurotoxic effects.
It is certain that several products labelled as parfum or fragrance mask unregulated synthetic and semi-synthetic ingredients. To the untrained eye, this is invisible, contributing to allergic sensitivities.
This is not just conjecture on my part but is harvested from scientifically researched sources such as IFRA, PubMed Central, and the National Institutes of Health.
Conclusion
It is an ethical and emotional decision. Our consumer-driven world is a hungry ghost that will always demand more, and more will be created in response. From a natural perspective, there is increasing emphasis on ingredient purity and ethical production. As essential oils are bio-available to humans, used mindfully, they can enrich both body and psyche.